Florence, Italy: Where to Go, What to Eat, and the Places I Keep Coming Back To

My first visit to Florence was as a study abroad student. I very rarely feel so at home in a new destination, but Florence had my heart from the very beginning. What followed was a tradition of returning to the city almost every year, including a 10-year stint when I made Florence my home.

One of the most charming things about Florence is that it doesn't change all that much. Walking through its streets today, I can still see the city as I knew it from my first visit. After 28 years of returning to what I consider my second home, I still find something to love and have never grown bored of what Florence has to offer.

My Favorite Things to Do in Florence

Forte Belvedere

One of my favorite places in the city is Forte Belvedere. I do venture to Piazzale Michelangelo, especially when bringing guests, because the sunset behind the Palazzo Vecchio is hard to beat. If you manage to snag a prime viewing spot among the hundreds of people vying for the same view, consider yourself lucky. What I love most about Forte Belvedere, besides the view itself, is the absence of throngs of people fighting for that same perfect shot. From up here, you get the city straight on, with the Duomo's cupola, the Bargello tower, and Florence's impressive architecture laid out before you, without everyone else's head in the way. Forte Belvedere is open seasonally, generally from summer through October, so check the opening dates before heading up.

Villa Bardini and Gardens

Villa Bardini is one of those places that seems to get left off most tourists' lists, but it really should be near the top. Between the historic villa, whatever exhibition happens to be on, the impressive gardens and the gorgeous views over Florence, there's plenty to make a visit worthwhile. After a bit of an uphill battle, you can wander through the terraced gardens and take in the view of the city below. It's rarely crowded, and you almost feel as if the place is yours alone. Stop at the café for a drink overlooking the city, or reserve a table at the restaurant and enjoy dinner on the terrace with a view.

Mercato delle Cascine

Markets will forever be my favorite places to see the real city in any European town, and Florence is no exception. You can visit the perennial, now thoroughly commercialized Mercato Centrale. I won't deny that the food vendors serve good food, if overpriced, but you're definitely not getting a Florentine experience there. Downstairs, during fresh market hours, is a little better. When I lived across the street, I was there daily, just like all my neighbors, picking up fresh fruit and vegetables or grabbing a quick lunch.

But if you really want to see a market, the obvious choice is Mercato delle Cascine on Tuesday mornings. This market was a staple for me: miles of stalls, porchetta sandwiches, and tons of bargains. The whole city seems to converge here on Tuesdays. Go for a little shopping, grab something to eat, and you'll see the real Florence. In December and around Easter it also operates on Sundays.

Palazzo Pitti

I never miss a chance to visit Palazzo Pitti when I'm in Florence. Even the exterior is impressive, with its grand presence, but inside you'll find an extraordinary collection of museums and exhibitions covering everything from art to fashion and the history of the Medici.

The Costume and Fashion Museum is one of my favorites. You can see Bronzino's famous portrait of Eleonora di Toledo at the Uffizi one day, then discover the actual burial dress of the duchess at Palazzo Pitti the next. The museum takes you through centuries of fashion in the very building where Italian fashion shows began taking place in the famous Sala Bianca in 1952, helping put Made in Italy on the international fashion map.

There's also the Palatine Gallery, the Medici apartments, and, of course, the Boboli Gardens. Grab a sandwich and a book, find a spot in the gardens, and spend a relaxing afternoon there.

Manifattura Tabacchi

You wouldn't necessarily think that a large former industrial complex, originally built as a tobacco factory during the Fascist era, would be a place to explore in Florence. But since the factory closed in 2001, the space has been given a new life as a lively hub. Head here for drinks, dinner or an outdoor movie in the summer. The renovation is impressive, and the large complex hosts markets, events, unique shops, restaurants, businesses, creative ventures, and guided tours of the buildings.

Where to Eat and Drink in Florence

Ino

Panini are a staple of Florentine life, but the lines outside All'Antico Vinaio seem to get longer every year I return. I won't deny that the sandwiches are good, but with the brand now spread across the United States and even in Dubai, it's no longer a distinctly Florentine experience.

Instead, head around the corner to 'Ino for a seriously good sandwich. They source excellent Tuscan cheeses, deli meats, and other local ingredients, bringing the best of the region's producers to the city center. Build your own sandwich or choose one of their preselected combinations for a taste of the best of Tuscany.

Zeb

If you could sit at an Italian nonna's table and that nonna happened to cook like a Michelin-starred chef, that would be Zeb. The menu changes with the seasons, using fresh ingredients prepared with incredible care. It's modern but traditional, contemporary in design yet still warm and homey. It feels like sitting in a stylish restaurant or enjoying a fine-dining experience, while also feeling like you're in a small village trattoria or grandma's kitchen.

Edoardo Il Gelato Biologico

In the shadow of the Duomo, right in the middle of one of Florence's busiest tourist areas, you'll find some of the best gelato in the city. It doesn't have the same guidebook fame as some of Florence's more famous gelaterias, or the kind of line you see at Perché No. What it does have is beautifully balanced organic ingredients, freshly made waffle cones, and unique flavors. I cannot go a day in Florence without stopping for my favorite cinnamon gelato.

Sbrino

When it's sweltering and I can't face eating a rich, dense, creamy gelato, I know it's time for a refreshing, icy granita, and Sbrino delivers every time. The ice crystals are fine, the sweetness is perfectly balanced with tart, fruity flavors, and the real kicker is that you can make boozy combinations. The lemon and prosecco combo is my favorite. Their gelato is also incredible with some very unique flavors.

La Ghiotta

In Florence, lunch is usually something to be savored, not squeezed into 30 minutes. But sometimes you're out and about and need a quick bite or takeaway snack. La Ghiotta has been my go-to for 28 years. It's a raucous, fast-paced little trattoria with a takeaway deli-style counter and about a dozen tables where you can sit down for a meal.

The food is straightforward Tuscan cooking: pasta, soups, and secondi, all delicious and full of flavor. If I'm in a real rush, I love their fried polenta and vegetables, which you can grab in a bag to go. If I have 30 minutes, I'll usually order spaghetti with Bolognese sauce. You'll find both tourists and locals going about their busy days at this Sant'Ambrogio neighborhood staple.

Il Santo Bevitore

With its vaulted ceilings, wine bottle decor and candlelight, Il Santo Bevitore is my choice for date night. The food is excellent, the ingredients are top quality, and the atmosphere is romantic without being stuffy. If you want to sample some of what they have to offer without committing to a full meal, stop next door at Il Santino wine bar for a cheese plate and a glass from their excellent wine selection.

Le Murate

Le Murate is one of those places that reminds me of those places in Paris or San Francisco, where the city's intellectuals, artists, and musicians gather to exchange ideas or start revolutions. Florence may be a small city, but this is about as close as you'll get to that kind of scene.

The atmosphere is buzzing, with cool young people discussing philosophy, professionals having an after-work drink and catching up with friends, and artsy designers working on their sketches. It's just cool. The drinks are great, the vibe is relaxed, the food is good, and the events, from concerts and book readings to lectures, drop you right into the culture of the city, even if you don't understand a word.

Pugi

Pugi remains my staple bakery in Florence, specifically for the schiacciatine, perfect little bites of bread with a variety of toppings. If you're into salty things, this place is for you. The flavors aren't subtle: lots of olive oil, plenty of salt, fresh, bright tomatoes, and wonderfully cheesy toppings. It's everything I love in a quick snack, and a great place to stop when you need something to tide you over while exploring the city.

Fratelli Briganti

If there's ever an example of how little Florence changes, it's one of my favorite places, Fratelli Briganti. Open since 1960 and now run by the third generation of the family, it's a Florentine institution serving simple food made with quality ingredients. Its iconic spaghetti with fresh tomato and basil is one of my favorite plates of pasta ever. You wouldn't imagine something so simple could taste so good, but the always-packed restaurant proves otherwise.

Beppa Fioraia

Atmosphere can make a big difference in how much you enjoy a meal, and Beppa Fioraia has one of the best settings in town. Tucked into the hillside in San Niccolò, away from the sweltering city center and the tourist crowds, the restaurant feels like you're eating inside a greenhouse. If the weather is nice, sit in the garden and you'll feel transported to the Tuscan countryside, surrounded by greenery. The food is decidedly Tuscan and delicious. I cannot resist the coccoli, little fried dough balls served with stracchino cheese and ham.

Florence is one of those cities where getting lost is part of the experience. The historic center is compact and walkable, and some of my favorite discoveries over the years have happened simply by wandering without a particular destination in mind.

Even after making it my home, I never stopped discovering new things. So leave yourself some time to explore beyond your plans. You never know what little corner, shop, or street might become your next favorite.